Author Archive

Rangers Wrangle Reptiles at the St Augustine Alligator Farm

May I just say how great I think the St Augustine Alligator Farm is? Seriously. The Farm is not just a “zoo,” it’s a close-knit group of folks who understand conservation, education, and tourism, and mesh the three together perfectly in one of St Augustine’s oldest attractions.

When you enter the Farm, you’re not just seeing animal exhibits. You’re experiencing a carefully-planned landscape of beings that are there for a purpose. Of course the Farm specializes in crocodilians, but birds and mammals abound as well, in enclosures that blend with the surroundings and are well-tended by an enthusiastic staff.

The Farm hosts several educational programs each year, some for the community, some for staff from other zoos. This one caught my attention: Mighty Wrangling Reptile Rangers.

In all my years of raising and caring for animals, I never thought of the need to train our military to deal with potentially aggressive animals. Kudos to the Farm for offering this program and carrying it out in its usual professional manner. And while I’m at it, here’s a shout-out to my friends at Eglin AFB: I miss you guys and I still think Eglin is the greatest military base ever!

Matanzas Bay ~ A Novel by Parker Francis

For me, the promise of a good read comes with the first sentence. The fulfillment of that promise arrives with the sentence that “hooks” me. Matanzas Bay had me with this:

“I was sitting in the welcoming shade of Trinity Episcopal Church in the nation’s oldest city shaking sand from my shoe.”

Yup. Parker Francis (aka Vic DeGenti) had me right there. It may have been partly because I know that city quite well, and because I have sat in that same spot shaking sand from my shoe.

He definitely had me here: “Maybe digging up 500-year-old bones gives you a sharper view of life’s fragility. More likely, it’s my naturally gloomy nature reminding me that in the end we’re all history.”

By this point in the book, I knew I had lucked into an author who not only knew my favorite city better than I do, but understood how the city itself had to be a character in this book. And what a character it was!

The main “human” character is Quint Mitchell, a private investigator who balances his work with his affection for the city and its secrets. His favorite pastime is volunteering on archaeological digs with his friend Dr Jeffrey Poe, city archaeologist in St Augustine, Florida. Like many of us, Quint Mitchell knows St Augustine keeps its secrets carefully, and gives them up only to those who want them badly enough to pay the price it demands…which can be high.

When Quint unearths a wicker hamper at an archaeological site holding (some of) the remains of vice mayor William Marrano, he knows the city isn’t going to give up this secret easily. When his friend Jeffery Poe is arrested for the murder, Quint begins uncovering the city’s secrets layer by layer, to get to the truth. The price is indeed high, and Quint finds himself at the mercy of the city and its residents on more than one occasion.

What I loved about this book: the reader can almost experience St Augustine as he/she reads it. Parker has an intimate knowledge not only of the main attractions, but more so of the nuances and beauties and flaws that make the St Augustine so compelling. Some of my favorites that appear in Matanzas Bay:

- Magnolia Avenue. Whenever I take someone with me to St Augustine, Magnolia Avenue is the first thing I show them. So far, I have never failed to get a dropped jaw and a whispered “awesome!”

- Parking on the Plaza. Those of you who know the city know what I’m talking about. If you don’t know the city, here’s a word for when you visit: watch your parking. Obey all parking signs and laws. And to avoid elevating my own blood pressure, I will let it go at that.

- Florida School for the Deaf and the Blind. Kudos to Francis for mentioning this wonderful, beautiful jewel in Florida’s crown.

- Burgers at A1A Ale Works. When you visit, you must inhale one of these. Get a plate of boniachos to go with it. I can’t vouch for the brew as I don’t drink beer, but I can tell you A1A’s root beer is so good I want to jump in my mug and swim around in it.

- The (ongoing) saga of civil rights in St Augustine. This city has an extremely rich civil rights history that is largely ignored or overlooked.

- The shout-out to my buddy Maximo at the St Augustine Alligator Farm.

- Inclusion of the Fort Matanzas National Monument in this story.

While Quint deals with getting to the bottom of Marrano’s murder, his own private battles rage within. His relationship with his lady has hit a snag, and the connection he felt to her grows tenuous. He carries a boatload of guilt from an accident he was involved in in which a young girl died. The murder, the city, and Quint’s personal demons all intertwine to keep the story moving quickly and building tension all the way to an explosive, “I never saw it coming” ending.

The book is available on Kindle and in paperback through Amazon.

Visit Vic DiGenti’s website.

St Augustine Pirate & Treasure Museum (Part I)

When I first got the news that St Augustine would be the new home of Pat Croce’s famous pirate museum (formerly located in Key West), I sighed.  Yup, just what St Augustine needs: another museum.

Then I saw it.

Oh, my goodness! I was right! St Augustine really did need this!

I have lots more to say about the museum, having visited it twice now. I’ll get to that soon, but for now please enjoy this wonderful video from FoxNews:

Pat Croce’s Passion For Pirates

One Day in St Augustine

One day! Only one day to spend in The Nation’s Most Fascinating City? Well… sometimes that’s how it goes. I meet a lot of people who stop off for an overnight stay on their way to somewhere else. You can see and do some fun things during a one-day stay in St Augustine, if you know where to look for them!

There are several ways to get around the city and sightsee. You can walk, you can take a horse-drawn carriage ride or you can take a sightseeing trolley. Each has its advantages. I prefer walking. By walking, you can go slowly and see everything up close. But if you are unfamiliar with the city, you don’t know where to walk or what you are seeing. So a horse-drawn carriage tour is my recommendation for first-timers who only have a day or a day and a night to spend.

For longer visits, a trolley is nice because you can usually buy your tickets to see the attractions you want to see when you buy your trolley ticket. The trolleys go everywhere in the city, and you can get on and off wherever you want. Trolleys are particularly good for elderly visitors or families with small children. Just remember – you have to get back on the same color trolley you got off of!

The horse-drawn carriages are a lovely way to take a long, slow, leisurely walk through the city, with a knowledgeable guide who will tell you all about the history of St Augustine as you go. Evening rides can be very romantic, and the city is particularly beautiful at night. What I have always liked about the carriage tours is that you can decide which places you especially wish to see up close, and you can walk or drive to them later and make the most of the time you have available to spend in St Augustine.

Another fun way to see the city from a different angle is to take a harbor cruise. St Augustine looks entirely different from Matanzas Bay! The Victory III sightseeing boat leaves the City Yacht Pier several times a day and takes passengers on a slow boat ride through the bay and out past the old Castillo. The fort is beautiful viewed from the water! If you are lucky (and I have been every time I have been aboard the Victory III) dolphin will swim near the boat and you will get a most delightful look at them. Another quite beautiful sight I have seen from the boat is a flock of Roseate Spoonbills and other birds feeding along the water’s edge. Check at the Municipal Marina for sail times and ticket prices.

The Ghost Walks are another way to see the city. Guides dressed in period Spanish costumes will walk you through the darkened streets by lanternlight and tell you stories of St Augustine’s ghosts and legends. You don’t have to believe in ghosts – these walks are just plain fun! But be careful… you will look over your shoulder! The ghost tours give visitors a chance to see some of St Augustine’s beautiful buildings up close and hear some fascinating stories about them. Ghost tours are lots of fun all year long but October is the best time to visit St Augustine for “ghost hunting!” The tour companies go all out to make the tours even more thrilling and interesting.

Seeing St Augustine has never been easier! Tour companies have kiosks set up in several prominent spots on St George Street, and you can choose and pay for various sightseeing packages there, including ghost tours. Also, your hotel should have free sightseeing maps with contact information for tour companies, and how to book tours.

Just strolling about the city can be quite enjoyable, even if you don’t know all of the significance of what you are seeing. St Augustine is a pretty town to stroll about in, and shopping on St George Street and in the neighboring areas is a lot of fun. There are plenty of unique and interesting shops to browse, and many are located in buildings with historical significance. Some have beautiful gardens out back where you may sit and rest for a bit. My favorite: The St Augustine Art Glass Gallery on St George Street.

Of course, strolling about and exploring the city bit by bit on foot allows you to sample some of St Augustine’s treats as well – ice cream, pastries, handmade fudge and hand-dipped candies, cold drinks and other delights are abundant in the city… just follow your nose!

A word about parking: in the past few years, somehow the city has managed to create an even worse parking nightmare than ever before. There are several visitor parking lots in the city, as well as a parking deck at the Visitor’s Center across from the Ripley’s Believe It Or Not museum. Parking is exceptionally difficult on Saturdays and Sundays and during special events. Mostly for that reason, I choose to stay in the historic district so I can walk everywhere I want to go downtown and not worry about my Jeep.

If you park downtown, please be mindful of the time you are allotted in your space. You can thank me for that bit of advice later.

Enjoy your short stay in St Augustine. Come back soon and stay a little longer!!!

An American in St Augustine

As I strolled along St George Street last week, I noticed a lot of activity at The Spanish Quarter museum. As it is one of my favorite places in the city anyway, it makes me happy to see it so busy. You can peek in over gates and through shutters as you pass by, and seeing the interpreters chatting with visitors I was reminded of an experience I had there a number of years ago.

In 2001, late August, my friends Mack and Barb wanted to visit St Augustine with me and here’s why:  Mack had just become an American citizen and he wanted to celebrate by visiting the nation’s oldest city. He’d had a long, hard road to becoming an American and visiting St Augustine was very meaningful to him.

Mack was quite well-known in his field in his country of birth. One day, a wealthy American visited his place of business and was so impressed with Mack’s skill that he offered Mack a job with his company in the States. The offer was salary, a rent-free apartment, a car to drive, and a weekly food allowance. Having dreamed all their lives of being able to go to America, Mack and Barb packed up their young son Anthony and headed for the “land of the free.”

Unfortunately, the situation was very different than Mack and Barb had been promised. They got everything they were offered but not in the context in which it was promised. Their “apartment” was a trailer with a hole in the roof of the living room, a pittance of a salary, a bag of groceries left on the steps once a week, and the use of a broken-down old station wagon if transportation was needed which it wouldn’t be because the owner would “see to all their needs” and Anthony could ride the school bus. They realized they’d been lied to, but their new “employer” held them powerless with threats of a call to the authorities.

Desperate to save his family, Mack got in touch with a local church to ask for help. On a particularly brutal winter’s day Barb stood at the stove cooking a pork chop for Anthony, who had had to stay home from school because he was terribly sick. A church minister opened the door to the trailer, startling her, and said, “You have to come now.”

It was snowing, and snow was drifting into the living room over Anthony who was wrapped in a blanket and trying to stay warm. Barb was so stressed and startled that she fought the minister and made him wait until she had found something to put the pork chop in so she could take it along because that was all she and Mack had to feed their sick little boy. The church moved them little by little to another state where there was a legitimate job waiting for Mack, and the church helped get them started in an apartment with furniture and an old car. Pretty soon things were going pretty well for the family.

Some years later, Barb and Anthony had gotten their American citizenship but Mack had fallen through the cracks. By then he was well established in a good job with a strong clientele, but because his citizenship process had gotten a kink in it somewhere he very nearly ended up having to leave the United States which he most definitely did not want to do. Miraculously, the kinks were straightened out in the nick of time and he took his oath of citizenship on the last Friday morning in August of 2001. He and Barb immediately hopped in their car and headed off to meet me in St Augustine.

The next morning, all bright and sunny, I took them to the Spanish Quarter. Because I practically lived there most of the interpreters knew me or at least knew of me, and when I showed up with Mack and Barb everyone was happy to see me and to meet my visitors. Mack was wearing an Old Navy T-shirt with an American flag on it, a hat with an American flag on it, and carrying a little American flag around. He was wonderful to be with. He is an emotional man anyway and most of the day he had tears in his eyes and told anyone who would listen that “I am vorld’s younkest Ameddican!”

One of the guys at the Spanish Quarter took me aside and asked me if Mack was okay, and I gave him the short version of the story. He proceeded to literally take Mack and Barb from me and parade them around the museum, proclaiming them to be “brand-new Americans in America’s oldest city.”

All the interpreters and employees, as well as the visitors, took on over Mack and Barb, shaking hands, slapping Mack on the back, and the overall feeling of goodwill just from being American was thick everywhere. Mack openly wept at how people treated him, and how special they made him feel. It was like a party, and when we left everyone hugged and kissed Mack and Barb and everyone cried. I have never forgotten that, and what my adopted city did for two people I loved dearly and how much it meant to them.

Less than two weeks later, the Twin Towers fell. On that day, Mack told me that now he knew what really felt like to be American.

Coming Home

I drove into St Augustine late last Thursday afternoon, March 10, exhausted from driving in the rain for two days. Thankfully the day was bordering on “sunny” so the rain was no longer something I’d have to contend with. I checked into my room and took off, exploring my city for the first time in several years.

Wisteria spilling over the garden wall at The Oldest House.

I had a little time to just walk about and get re-acquainted with my city. Springtime has arrived in St Augustine and the season never fails to thrill me, no matter where I am. Of course, I think spring is a lot more intense and enjoyable in St Augustine, but that’s kind of just me…

It felt like coming home to a place I’d never been. Subtle (and not-so-subtle) changes were immediately visible as well as easily felt. Over the past twenty years (and considering St Augustine’s history, twenty years is a drop in the bucket) the city has changed significantly and I’m not sure all the changes are for the better. Still, St Augustine remains my city and my obsession, and I can’t get enough of it.

Most of the outward changes I see involve re-structuring curbs and such, parking, and the recent closure of parking spaces on Aviles Street. I do admit the improvements to streets make the city look pretty in spite of all that new concrete and asphalt. But it almost seems as though someone is trying their best to eliminate as much parking in the city as possible and make the remaining parking difficult to locate as well as pricey. And this is not a good thing.

I was happy to see the improvements made to Aviles Street and the removal of parking north of the St Augustine Historical Society Research Library. I was under the impression that Aviles Street would be closed to vehicles and it is not. In thinking it over, that probably wouldn’t have been a plan anyway.

Bikes on the Plaza

I had forgotten about Bike Week. I usually do. But it wouldn’t have changed my plans at all. In fact, it was wonderful to see the bikes all lined up on the Plaza de la Constitucion and the owners chatting together as they strolled about and visited the city.

I wasn’t in town long enough to do everything I wanted to do but I managed to update a good bit of my old website information and to see some new things I’ve been excited about. I attended the Minorcan Cultural Festival on Saturday where I sampled chicken pilau for the first time, and met the mega-delightful Irma and Stuart Pacetti. Those two just make me smile and smile and I am looking forward to seeing them again sometime.

I spent a cool hour or so at the brand-new Pirate & Treasure Museum across from the Castillo. More on that later, but suffice to say it was an educational and intense experience and I’m so happy the Museum came to St Augustine.

I stayed at my favorite spot, the Marion Motor Lodge, across from the city marina and the Santa Maria restaurant. The owners and staff greeted me with open arms like I’d never been away. It felt like a family reunion, chatting, catching up, and seeing pictures of the grandchildren who are now all either graduating from college or high school. I eventually made it upstairs to my room feeling warm, safe, and welcomed. And that is the best thing that hasn’t changed in the nearly twenty years I’ve been staying there.

Nothing Remains The Same

For a number of years I ran a fairly large website also called “Positively St Augustine.” It got a good bit of traffic and I met lots of people through it. I enjoyed occasionally meeting my readers, helping them plan trips to St Augustine, and answering questions. Then one day my hosting service melted down. The site was so out of control on my end that I just didn’t sorth through it all to put it back up.

Recently, I got lonely for my site! Interestingly, at the same time, I’d begun to look into WordPress as a possibility for my St Augustine site as well as a couple of other sites I had. Fast-forward through the boring stuff…and here I am. I confess I did the WordPress thing as a trial but I am enjoying learning the features and possibilities.

Little by little I’ve started putting my St Augustine information back up but I’ve come to realize a lot of it needs updating! Even the Nation’s Oldest City changes, sometimes unfortunately, and I have to keep up with those changes. Everyone who knows me knows I never needed an “excuse” to visit St Augustine, but if I ever did this is a perfect one.

I have a trip planned in a couple of weeks. I will be sniffing about, talking to people there, visiting some new places and re-visiting some old ones. I plan to have lots of new photos and new or updated information for my site. Patience has never been one of my stronger characteristics so I’m a bit fidgety to get on the road but in the meantime I am making note of the places I want to visit and things I want to do while I’m there so I don’t forget anything. I want plenty to work with when I am there so I bring home plenty to do!

Thanks to everyone who has commented on my site, and to those who have contacted me asking for more info or when I will have more info available. I appreciate your interest and hope you are pleased with my updates.

The Gonzales-Alvarez House (The Oldest House)

It’s no great secret to anyone who knows me that St Augustine “talks” to me. Some parts of the city talk to me a little more “strongly” than others, and one of the places where I enjoy listening is the Gonzales-Alvarez House; more commonly known as The Oldest House.

In the old city, it’s easy to hear voices, feel energies and become almost a part of the history that lies over St Augustine like a rare and cherished handwoven tapestry. The tapestry that is The Gonzales-Alvarez House is woven of stories of desperation, of prosperity, and of survival.

I have haunted this beautiful house on St Francis Street for years. I think I know every inch of it, for this house fills my thoughts so when I am not in the city and I often visit it more than once when I am. Of course I have read Miss Eugenia Price’s Maria, many people who visit The Oldest House do. But I have also spent hours in the St Augustine Historical Society Research Library, soaking up everything I could find about Maria, who is better known in St Augustine as Mary Evans Peavett. Getting to know Mrs Peavett has been a pleasure to me; she is one of my favorite St Augustine historical figures.

I never tire of visiting Mary’s house. It is beautifully kept and lovingly maintained by the St Augustine Historical Society. The house itself is a jewel in a perfect setting, a priceless and wonderfully preserved part of St Augustine’s history. The gardens are immaculately manicured and weddings are frequently held there. The Oldest House gardens are a perfect, romantic setting for a wedding.

Mary’s house whispers to me, and in some strange way I feel connected to it. I can always feel the presence of the people who lived in the house, not just Mary and Joseph Peavett, but Tomas and Francisca Gonzales, the first people we know of who lived in the house. Back then, early in the seventeenth century, the house was just a plain box with a flat roof on St Francis Street. But when Tomas and Francisca lived in it, it evolved from a wood structure with a thatch roof into a handsome 2-room coquina “mansion” with a flat roof and a tabby floor. Here, the Gonzales family lived until England took possession of St Augustine in 1763 and all Spanish residents were ordered to leave. Francisca, now an old woman, had to pack her belongings and help her grown children do the same, and leave the home she had lived in all her married life, for Havana.

What were Francisca’s thoughts as she prepared to leave the home in which she had raised her children? How did she choose what to take along and what to leave behind? I often wonder what went through her mind as she closed her door for the last time and walked up the street to a ship that would take her to a place she’d never been and knew nothing about. Even now, so many years later, my heart aches for her. Once again, history teaches us that nothing is ever permanent; nothing is ever a “sure thing.” No doubt Francisca expected to live out her last days in her house, surrounded by her family, and prepared for her final rest by the loving hands of her children. But a political event thousands of miles from her in a place of which she had never heard changed her life forever.

In 1775, the Peavetts bought the house and had it remodeled to their tastes. The tiny, flat-roofed, two-room coquina house where Francisca and Tomas had raised six of their ten children would not do for an important military man like Joseph and his wife Mary, who was a highly-sought-after midwife in the tiny colony. So the couple had a second story added, with a shingled roof. They designed their improvements so they could live privately upstairs, and they opened a tavern downstairs in the Gonzales family’s old living area. Together, Joseph and Mary accumulated a lot of land, a lot of slaves and a lot of money. When Joseph died in 1786, Mary was left quite wealthy.

Mary lost most of her wealth in the following few years when she married John Hudson, a n’er do-well and a compulsive gambler. She died in 1792; not poor but not as wealthy as she could have been, for John Hudson cost her most of the fortune she and Joseph had accumulated including the St Francis Street house. The house was auctioned to the highest bidder to help pay John’s gambling debts. That bidder was Geronimo Alvarez, baker for the government hospital.

Alvarez and his young wife, Antonia Venz, moved in. Tomas and Francisca were probably long gone by then, but their son, Hipolito Gonzales, returned to St Augustine. He never regained ownership of his family’s home but he witnessed the deed tranferring ownership to the Alvarez family. Most likely, he watched Geronimo and Antonia, and their children Antonio and Teresa, move into the house in which he grew up.

Antonia Venz Alvarez died very young, and Geronimo had to hire help to care for his children for he was becoming politically active in St Augustine. As his son, Antonio, matured, he also became politically active in his family’s city. Antonio Alvarez served several terms as city treasurer and also as mayor.

Geronimo Alvarez died in 1846, but he left evidence of his life not only in his house on St Francis Street, but also at his church: the bell in the topmost niche in the Cathedral of St Augustine is his gift to us all.

My favorite part of the house is Tomas and Francisca’s part, the downstairs small rooms. Hard to imagine, but a family of eight lived, worked, and died here. Francisca actually bore ten children but only six of them lived to adulthood. The St Augustine Historical Society has carefully preserved the “look” of Tomas and Francisca’s house. The simple tabby floors and sparse furnishings, sleeping mats and essential items for everyday living seem almost poverty-level on the surface but when you look beneath the surface you see that their very simple needs were straightforward and easily met. I love to visit the house in the afternoons, when sunlight slants through the windows onto the floor. I wonder if Francisca noticed the sunlight too, as she swept and tidied her family’s home.

Upstairs, Mary Peavett must be still silently moving through her house and sitting in her parlor reading one of her many books, for the rooms certainly look as though she has simply stepped out to go see if there is anything interesting for dinner at the town market. The Alvarez influence is here as well; the table in the dining room is set for an Alvarez meal. Upstairs, the influence of the other owners of the house can also be seen – the house has been carefully decorated and presented to represent each period in its history.

Out back, in the gardens, the small detached kitchen is a lovely example of a detached St Augustine kitchen. It is quite well-appointed for such a kitchen; and its oven was rather modern for its day. Paths through the garden invite a slow stroll and reflection on what it had to have been like to actually live in this house. With the addition of horses’ hooves clopping along the street as the sightseeing carriages pass by, it almost becomes necessary to drag yourself back into the 21st century.

It is a warm and intimate feeling, to be able to spend a short time in Francisca’s and Mary’s house; step across the floors they walked on, and almost hear their thoughts as you feel the air of the old house touch your skin. It is one of the best places I have found in St Augustine to get as close as possible to the people who helped the city survive, and live to tell its own stories.

Colonial Spanish Quarter Museum

One of the great delights of St Augustine is the pride its residents take in their heritage and the legacy they cherish. For the most part, the town has been carefully preserved to maintain the “old St Augustine” atmosphere while offering a clear look back into the past. One of the best places in St Augustine to see the past up close is at the Colonial Spanish Quarter.

Every time I visit the Colonial Spanish Quarter, I can’t help but wonder if looking into the past, we might build a better future?

Located along St George Street, across from the Castillo de San Marcos, the Colonial Spanish Quarter is a living history museum where interpreters become residents and 1740′s St Augustine is a way of life. The village operates as St Augustine did when it was young. Each resident offers a skill that provides what the village needs, just as they did over four hundred years ago.

A self-guided walk through the Colonial Spanish Quarter allows close-up glimpses into the homes of soldiers and their lives with their families. The houses in the village are reconstructed from archeological findings and research into the history of the structures that once stood along St George Street. Structures are built by hand, using hand tools of the period, and crafts and art such as spinning, weaving, sewing, tatting, lacemaking, carpentry, candlemaking, woodworking, gardening, leathercrafting and blacksmithing are all done by hand at the village. Much of the clothing worn by the residents is spun, woven and sewn on site. Tools are either made or acquired as best the residents are able to find them. Food for meals in the village is grown on site in the Colonial Spanish Quarter gardens, and lunch is prepared at Village most days.

I have roamed about the Colonial Spanish Quarter for all the years I have been roaming around St Augustine, and I have thoroughly enjoyed talking to the residents and getting an inside look at what it is really like to live in my favorite city. It’s one thing to live in St Augustine. It is an entirely different thing to live there. Many of the interpreters at the village are not “portraying” a character while they are on the timeclock–many of them actually incorporate the 1740′s Spanish lifestyle into their own daily lives. I once spoke with an interpreter there who told me she often dressed the same out of the village as she did when she came to work. She sensibly pointed out that the clothing was far cooler and more practical for her way of life.

I have always been fascinated with the Spanish implements and tools of the day, and the construction of the Spanish houses. Visit the Casa de Gallegos; wouldn’t cooking a meal be so much more enjoyable if you could sit comfortably on a wide, low “kitchen counter” to prepare your family’s food, while a breeze wafted in through the wide-open windows, and your pet blue jay chattered at you from the top of your shutter? And how much easier would it be to keep a house with only two rooms, when you rolled up your sleeping mats and swept your floor each morning? The idea has its merits, I think.

The sense of community is strong here. It is easy to feel the bond that exists between the people who “live” here and it clearly paints a living picture of what life in St Augustine in 1740 was really like. It was not a good idea to band together for a common purpose, it was crucial to the very existence of these people to band together for a common purpose: survival. They had only what they had; what they could repair, make, or barter for. Money had little value, really, for if ships couldn’t come from Spain what was there to buy? When the town had money and things to buy with it, times were good. And when pirates attacked, or General James Oglethorpe, and his sidekick, Noble Jones, came up from Georgia to cause problems for St Augustine, everyone grabbed their chickens and their cow or their pig, whatever belongings they could carry, and huddled in the Castillo and hoped for the best.

But most times, soldiers could be found socializing in the tavern and housewives chatting over the fences or through the windows. When a Spanish ship appeared in the Atlantic, great celebrations broke out, for a new load of goods was arriving and stocks and stores would be replenished. Soon a new belt would appear here or a new skirt there, new bowls and pots and pans and materials to make all manner of new and useful things, and everyone felt wealthy!

Today, many of the interpreters who work in the village will tell you that doing what they do makes them feel wealthy.

The Colonial Spanish Quarter now opens the Taberna del Gallo (Tavern of the Rooster) to visitors on selected evenings. Visit the Taberna for a true St Augustine experience offered nowhere else: socializing in an authentic 18th-century Spanish tavern! Enjoy cool drinks and on special evenings, live entertainment. It is great fun! You know you are in for a good time when you can hear the celebrations in the tavern a block away.

Be sure and visit the Colonial Spanish Quarter Museum Store. It is filled with delightful things like crafts and games for children, unique gifts, wonderful T-shirts, and household items that look as though they belong in an 18th-century Spanish home, but are beautiful and functional in any home. You can also purchase items made in the Village, such as iron hooks and nails, handmade beeswax candles, and wooden kitchen goods. The small bookstore in a back corner has a good selection of local-interest and Florida-related books. I never leave St Augustine without bringing home something from the Colonial Spanish Quarter!

I spoke with one of the village craftsmen recently; I watched him hammering away for a few minutes, and then I asked him, “What would you be doing if you weren’t doing what you are doing right now?”

He pondered the question for a moment and then he replied, “I’d be doing this somewhere else!” He went on to tell me how content he is to live in St Augustine, and how he himself has incorporated so much of the Colonial Spanish Quarter lifestyle into his own life. And I told him I thought he was one of the luckiest people I know!

The Oldest Wooden Schoolhouse, or Juan Genopoly’s House

One of the things I love most about St Augustine is its surprises… just when you think you have the city figured out and you know most of its secrets, something new pops up. So, when I discovered one of St Augustine’s most particularly delightful treasures had a special secret, I was thrilled.

On that first visit to St Augustine when I was nine, my dad naturally took us to see The Nation’s Oldest Wooden Schoolhouse. Of course, having lost my pop-bottle glasses in the Atlantic on our first day there, I couldn’t really see it well but I knew it was a treasure just from the way it smelled and the way the air felt around it. My dad took me over to the side of the little building and put my hand on the giant chain draped around the old house. The links alone were almost the same size as my child’s hand… oh, how I wanted to see this house! I had to content myself with running my fingers along its walls, feeling the unevenness of the floor, and inhaling the air inside that smelled like aged wood and stone.

So as an adult, when I was able to go back and take my time and explore every inch of the little wooden dwelling and its inviting garden, I discovered a charming monument to the tenacious St Augustine spirit. I discovered that while the little house did indeed serve as a schoolhouse for a brief period, it has far more historical significance as the home of Juan Genopoly.

Juan was Greek, and part of the Minorcan colony from New Smyrna. He arrived in St Augustine sometime in mid-1777, along with the rest of the pitiful group that had been promised so much and had realized so little. The Minorcans straggled into St Augustine, hoping for better lives and a fresh start. Unfortunately, the small city was almost as ill-equipped to handle the group as the New Smyrna plantation had been. Housing, food and supplies were seriously short.

It took time, but many of the Minorcans were able to acquire lots and acreage and build homes and new futures. Juan Genopoly managed to get his hands on the tiny lot near the City Gate and build a small wood frame house for himself and his family. That house is what we now know as The Oldest Wooden Schoolhouse. It remains much as Juan built it, and is the oldest wooden structure standing in St Augustine today, having been built sometime around 1800.

Here’s what I love about this house: it is a living testament to a man who walked through the St Augustine City Gate with literally nothing. He may have owned a worn out coat, or a blanket. He may have had a sack with a little food in it that he hastily grabbed as he was leaving New Smyrna; food he would have shared with those around him. He may have had a tool or some nails. But he didn’t have a horse, or a wagon, or money. All he had was his personal knowledge and abilities, and a determination to overcome the adversity that had killed so many of his friends. Being in this house brings me close to Juan, and some days it seems that if I could only listen closely enough I’d hear him speaking to me, telling me his story.

How I wish he could.

Juan’s house is one of the most unique places in the city where you can truly look back in time. The house itself is beautifully preserved and a very nice example of second Spanish period living. The kitchen building in the garden illustrates perfectly the necessity for cooking away from the main structure to prevent fires. The little wooden house would have gone up in a second from one unfortunate spark!

The garden path winds graciously through lovingly tended foliage and blooms and an herb patch…the garden feels like an extension of the house and seems almost isolated from the rest of the world behind the coquina wall that surrounds it. Benches and chairs provide quiet places to stop and reflect a moment on the importance of the site. What a fitting tribute that Juan’s house eventually became a place of education!

Looking around, it is easy to peel away the centuries and picture energetic children playing tag down the paths, tossing a ball beside the back wall, quietly bent over their books and slates on wooden benches in a corner of the garden. The Florida heat had to have made the little house terribly stuffy and warm inside, so it is easy to imagine the children moving outside to work in the fresh air.

It doesn’t happen often, but it does get cold in St Augustine, too! The fireplace inside the house is one of its best features. It just looks like you could stand in front of it on a cold winter’s day and its heat would soak right into your bones. The fireplace was a practical addition to life in St Augustine; before the British Period the Spanish residents lived in small, one-story, flat-roofed houses which they heated with braziers in the floor. Juan’s house was actually quite modern for its time!

I learn something new every time I visit the little old “schoolhouse.” I learn about struggle and perseverance, and I learn about never giving up. I think old Juan is a pretty good teacher!